To Chemically Straighten Or To Not To?

I think all of us curly haired ladies (and/or gents) have been here or at least had this thought. We've all been pushed to the brink where our hair will just....not....behave! And we consider chemical straighteners. We want to squash the disobedience and finally get some good hair days.

But what are chemical straighteners exactly?

Chemical straighteners are usually lotions or creams that break down the protein structure (called keratin) to permanently straighten the hair even as it grows out. This is unlike heat straightening. Chemical straighteners are often used in hair treatments such as relaxers or keratin treatments and can have both short-term and long-term effects on naturally curly hair especially if used incorrectly or too often.

So how do chemical straighteners work exactly?

First, we need to talk about why naturally curly hair....curls. Curly hair contains the protein, keratin. Keratin contains sulfide molecules. These sulfide molecules attach to one another which creates a disulfide bond. Chemical straighteners work by breaking this disulfide bond. Seems simple, right? I know....science! What a wonderfully complicated thing. Main thing to note is the more disulfide bonds a piece of hair has, the more curls it will have. And if we are breaking those bonds then it will then become straight.

Here are some potential dangers associated with chemical straighteners:

1. Chemical Damage: The primary concern with chemical straighteners is the use of harsh chemicals, such as sodium hydroxide or formaldehyde, in the products. These chemicals can break down the protein structure of the hair, simply leading to damage and weakening of the hair shaft. Over time, this can result in dryness, brittleness, and increased susceptibility to breakage.

2. Hair Dryness and Frizz: Chemical straighteners can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and increased frizz. Literally....our worst nightmare!! Curly hair tends to be naturally drier due to its structure, and the additional loss of moisture from chemical treatments can exacerbate this issue, making the hair more prone to breakage.

3. Scalp Irritation: The chemicals in straightening products can also irritate the scalp, leading to discomfort, redness, and itching. Individuals with sensitive scalps may experience more severe reactions, including burning sensations and potentially inflammation.

4. Alteration of Curl Pattern: Chemical straighteners alter the natural curl pattern of the hair. While this is the intended outcome for those seeking straight hair, it's essential to consider that the process is irreversible. Once the natural curl pattern is altered, it can be challenging to restore the original texture. A friend in high school had this done and I believe she may still regret it?

5. Potential Health Risks: Certain chemical straighteners, particularly those containing formaldehyde, have been associated with health risks. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, and prolonged exposure to high levels of this chemical can pose serious health concerns for both individuals applying the treatment and those receiving it (Llamas, 2023) .

6. Maintenance Challenges: Chemical straightened hair requires specific maintenance to keep it healthy. It often needs regular touch-ups as new hair grows in with the natural texture, leading to a cycle of repeated chemical exposure. Failure to follow proper maintenance can result in uneven textures and further damage.

Other concerning facts regarding chemically straightening hair.

After getting a bit more intrigued by the side effects in this subject, I found my way to the website, Drug Watch, which is an organization that promotes awareness for anything harmful or dangerous in medications, medical devices, etc. According to their website, "parabens, phthalates, formaldehyde and the toxic chemical DEHP are among the ingredients in relaxers that may cause cancer" (Llamas, 2023). This is due to the potential of hormone dysfunction in both males and females. It was noted that uterine or breast cancers are amongst the most common in their research findings. Additionally in a specific study, it was noted that women of color may be more affected simply due to higher use (Llamas, 2023).

Here is a fun fact for you:

One specific chemical, parabens, are very common in shampoos and conditioners. The fun fact is that parabens are commonly very effective against mold and fungi. Gross!!! But also is it worse to have it on your head? Even worse!! Lol sorry for the visual!

I think i's important for individuals considering chemical straightening to thoroughly research the products used, understand the potential risks, and consult with a professional stylist. Additionally, embracing and caring for natural curls with suitable products and techniques can help maintain healthy, vibrant hair without the potential dangers associated with chemical straighteners. So my take on all of this? Maybe our curly hair is not so bad after all! :)

References

Llamas, M. (2023, October 25). Chemical Hair Straighteners. Retrieved from Drug Watch: https://www.drugwatch.com/chemical-hair-straighteners/